Some Helpful Hints:
1. There is no rule that says you have to march out and go after your enemy. If you have a good position hold it, your battle report will likely not end up in White Dwarf anyway.
2. Try spreading out your elite units, use you general and BSB to boost your basic units, let your killers go out and kill. You can also use them as 'panic breakers' simply line up your elite(r) units every other unit, so that panic will have a more difficult path to take to spread panic to your entire army. Placing characters in basic units will make them more of a panic breaker if you lack in elite units.
3. Don't fight the nature of your army. If it is good at something use it.
4. It is difficult to mess up a simple plan.
5a. Keep up to date on enemy army books, know what they can and can't do.
5b. Don't be afraid to call B.S. If someone calls B.S. on you change whatever it is, If one person says it that means many are thinking it, if several people say it that means everyone is thinking it.
6. Don't be a one trick pony. Everyone loves the zoomygod unit that can roll anything, but if that unit, character hits a snag your whole gameplan is shot. try taking several good units instead, break up the zoomygodyness into several chunks, this gives you more options and people are more likely to enjoy playing against you.
7. There will never be one answer to every question, some questions will never have an answer.
A gaming blog primarily focused on Games Workshop systems but with a healthy dose of historical miniatures. I tend to share my attempts at painting as well as my thoughts on the hobby and game systems
Monday, November 19, 2012
Monday, November 12, 2012
More options for Border Brigands
Some more options for game types that fits under the broad umbrella of my Border Brigand creation.
1. If you have a third player with a big army, you could make the Brigands a substantial force, the size of either army, or only a few hundred points cheaper. The objective would be for the Brigands to hold out, while the attacker and defender are trying to capture as it was set up originally. in this case the defender would not have to wait two turns before showing up. This is another case where the best player/army gets the middle to prove how good they are. Same victory conditions as the original version
2. You could make this a relief force game. Where it is the defenders units holding the Watchtower and camp, and this separated force has to hold out for reinforcements. What used to be the brigand force could be up to 40% of the defending forces whole point total. In this game make the rest of the defending army arrive on turn two. I think this is already a game type, i just add in required terrain features. same victory conditions as the original version.
1. If you have a third player with a big army, you could make the Brigands a substantial force, the size of either army, or only a few hundred points cheaper. The objective would be for the Brigands to hold out, while the attacker and defender are trying to capture as it was set up originally. in this case the defender would not have to wait two turns before showing up. This is another case where the best player/army gets the middle to prove how good they are. Same victory conditions as the original version
2. You could make this a relief force game. Where it is the defenders units holding the Watchtower and camp, and this separated force has to hold out for reinforcements. What used to be the brigand force could be up to 40% of the defending forces whole point total. In this game make the rest of the defending army arrive on turn two. I think this is already a game type, i just add in required terrain features. same victory conditions as the original version.
Walls/Obstacles
Another Monday another post
This week's build you own will likely be the last for a while, i have run out of supplies and money, but this week's build is also the easiest and quickest with the most possibilities
Walls. To start the walls need to be 6" long, regulation size, and about 3/8" to 1/2" tall. This is again to let you models 'see' over. Then depending on what type of wall you want to build you can do several different things.
I would define three of these as soft cover, the two with the fallen trees and the fence, the stone wall would be hardcover. Walls can be as simple as standing a straight piece of 1/16" on its side for a stone wall, the fallen trees are just the de-cornered wooden dowels laid on top of each other. The fence is two thin strips connected by a lot of small 'posts'. Ta da walls. Some notes, 6" should be large enough to fit a unit of larger bases behind the frontage. And if you want a long wall just place these suckers next to each other. Painting, now that i have done it I would suggest you dont paint. Too much paint, and I didnt impress myself with the results.
This week's build you own will likely be the last for a while, i have run out of supplies and money, but this week's build is also the easiest and quickest with the most possibilities
Walls. To start the walls need to be 6" long, regulation size, and about 3/8" to 1/2" tall. This is again to let you models 'see' over. Then depending on what type of wall you want to build you can do several different things.
I would define three of these as soft cover, the two with the fallen trees and the fence, the stone wall would be hardcover. Walls can be as simple as standing a straight piece of 1/16" on its side for a stone wall, the fallen trees are just the de-cornered wooden dowels laid on top of each other. The fence is two thin strips connected by a lot of small 'posts'. Ta da walls. Some notes, 6" should be large enough to fit a unit of larger bases behind the frontage. And if you want a long wall just place these suckers next to each other. Painting, now that i have done it I would suggest you dont paint. Too much paint, and I didnt impress myself with the results.
Monday, November 5, 2012
Border Brigands part 2
5. Turn: Attacker goes first, brigands second and defender third. For first two turns only Brigands and Attackers exist, for gaming purposes. Then after attacker and brigand third turn the defenders 'appear' this acts as their normal first turn, anything that might have incidentally affected them before this turn doesnt count. Defender may move, shoot, cast spells and fight if they can in their first turn (turn 3) {if no third player simply dont place any brigands and attacker goes first then defender they dont have to wait if there are no brigands}
6. Game Length: 7 turns if there are brigands, 5 + one more on roll of 4+ if no brigands
7. Victory conditions: Victory Points
1pt: first to take Camp(not brigands) with a clear majority of point value
1pt: first to take Watchtower, forcing out or killing anybody in it (if no brigands, no point for this)
1pt: For killing leaders, camp leader, or either general
1pt: for captured Battle Standard
1pt: for capturing more Standards than opponent (battle standard counts towards this)
1pt: for holding the watchtower at game end
2pts: for holding camp at game end, clear majority of point value
1pt: for each unit over 10 models (at end of game) across the enemy's border, not fleeing and not in combat.
If there is a tie, Point Value decides, count brigand kills if they are there. Obviously it is almost impossible for the brigands to win, but if somehow they tie for the lead, they win, well done and bravo
PS. Something I forgot, no warmachines for anybody, the brigands dont have the resources and this is supposed to be reactionary forces for the main army who dont have time to drag warmachines with them
PSS. I havent played this yet so there are probably some balancing issues, and turn length might need to be tweaked for larger games. And the most important thing is always that everybody has fun.
6. Game Length: 7 turns if there are brigands, 5 + one more on roll of 4+ if no brigands
7. Victory conditions: Victory Points
1pt: first to take Camp(not brigands) with a clear majority of point value
1pt: first to take Watchtower, forcing out or killing anybody in it (if no brigands, no point for this)
1pt: For killing leaders, camp leader, or either general
1pt: for captured Battle Standard
1pt: for capturing more Standards than opponent (battle standard counts towards this)
1pt: for holding the watchtower at game end
2pts: for holding camp at game end, clear majority of point value
1pt: for each unit over 10 models (at end of game) across the enemy's border, not fleeing and not in combat.
If there is a tie, Point Value decides, count brigand kills if they are there. Obviously it is almost impossible for the brigands to win, but if somehow they tie for the lead, they win, well done and bravo
PS. Something I forgot, no warmachines for anybody, the brigands dont have the resources and this is supposed to be reactionary forces for the main army who dont have time to drag warmachines with them
PSS. I havent played this yet so there are probably some balancing issues, and turn length might need to be tweaked for larger games. And the most important thing is always that everybody has fun.
Border Brigands part 1
In another attempt to spice up my gaming, i created a new game type that is really just a variant on Watchtower. I came up with this game type so that you could play with a third, less experienced player, or two inexperienced and one experienced. While it is not particularly fun to be the third person in this particular game it does allow you to learn, or get in a little gaming if you dont have time for a full battle. It also doesnt require a full army to play as the third player.
So Basically this is Watchtower as I said before but this time there are more set pieces and buildings and they are occupied by some Brigands who have been raiding both sides forcing both nations to react thinking it is the other causing the problems.
Setup:
1. Roll to see who is attacker and defender between the two major armies. Winner decides. Defender deploys his entire army on one side of the battle field (normal 4'x6' table playing across the short length) Deployment zone is 12" deep along the full length of table. they may deploy scouts, but no ambushers or vanguard.
2. After Defender deploys the rest of the battlefield is set up. At the half way length (2 feet) there is the border, Within the border put you watchtower and several other terrain features to represent a make shift camp the type you would expect raiders to build. Maybe a few small buildings, tents, some walls. be sure to leave enough room for units to maneuver. these need only be a few pieces, just enough to define a decently large camp, where you can fit several normal units. You may place the watchtower in or next to the camp.
3. After the border camp is established set up any more terrain you have, try to be fair.
4. Deploying the Brigands, this gets complicated maybe.
The third player, if there is no third skip this section, If you have a GM you might use him as the third for a fairer game. The brigands are 400pts (in a 2000pt game, make brigands less than a fifth the size of the normal armies) You may spend 75pts on the camp leader, and 75pts on two Sublieutenants these may be from any army book, just make these selections from the same book. No undead, daemons, monsters or flyers, doesnt make sense for them to be raiders. Then spend the rest of your points on models less than 15pts a model. These models may be from any army book, but no undead, daemons, monster or flyers. They may take any normal upgrades(this may take them beyond 15pts) normal rules apply units have to equipped the same, you may take champions but no musicians or standard bearers. Units can be 10 models but no bigger. if this conflicts with rules in an army book ignore the army book for sake of the brigands and fun. Place the brigands inside the border, at least one model must be in the Watchtower and one in the camp.
5. Attacker deploys normally.
So Basically this is Watchtower as I said before but this time there are more set pieces and buildings and they are occupied by some Brigands who have been raiding both sides forcing both nations to react thinking it is the other causing the problems.
Setup:
1. Roll to see who is attacker and defender between the two major armies. Winner decides. Defender deploys his entire army on one side of the battle field (normal 4'x6' table playing across the short length) Deployment zone is 12" deep along the full length of table. they may deploy scouts, but no ambushers or vanguard.
2. After Defender deploys the rest of the battlefield is set up. At the half way length (2 feet) there is the border, Within the border put you watchtower and several other terrain features to represent a make shift camp the type you would expect raiders to build. Maybe a few small buildings, tents, some walls. be sure to leave enough room for units to maneuver. these need only be a few pieces, just enough to define a decently large camp, where you can fit several normal units. You may place the watchtower in or next to the camp.
3. After the border camp is established set up any more terrain you have, try to be fair.
4. Deploying the Brigands, this gets complicated maybe.
The third player, if there is no third skip this section, If you have a GM you might use him as the third for a fairer game. The brigands are 400pts (in a 2000pt game, make brigands less than a fifth the size of the normal armies) You may spend 75pts on the camp leader, and 75pts on two Sublieutenants these may be from any army book, just make these selections from the same book. No undead, daemons, monsters or flyers, doesnt make sense for them to be raiders. Then spend the rest of your points on models less than 15pts a model. These models may be from any army book, but no undead, daemons, monster or flyers. They may take any normal upgrades(this may take them beyond 15pts) normal rules apply units have to equipped the same, you may take champions but no musicians or standard bearers. Units can be 10 models but no bigger. if this conflicts with rules in an army book ignore the army book for sake of the brigands and fun. Place the brigands inside the border, at least one model must be in the Watchtower and one in the camp.
5. Attacker deploys normally.
Watchtower
It is Monday time for another post
For the next bit of self built warhammer stuff, I made a watchtower. It has three levels, two interior one on top. Each one has space for 25 normal bases, and about 16 larger bases. Both the top level and the top interior level are removable. It is about 5"x5" on the base, and about 8" tall. Strictly speaking this is too big for a single unit, so to follow the rules for buildings you might want to make yours about 3-3.5" square at the base and about 7-8" tall. Also i tend to go overboard on buildings, again due to my architecture background, you do not have to put the interior levels in there, or cut the window and door holes. All you really need is a place to put a few models on top so it looks occupied.
For the next bit of self built warhammer stuff, I made a watchtower. It has three levels, two interior one on top. Each one has space for 25 normal bases, and about 16 larger bases. Both the top level and the top interior level are removable. It is about 5"x5" on the base, and about 8" tall. Strictly speaking this is too big for a single unit, so to follow the rules for buildings you might want to make yours about 3-3.5" square at the base and about 7-8" tall. Also i tend to go overboard on buildings, again due to my architecture background, you do not have to put the interior levels in there, or cut the window and door holes. All you really need is a place to put a few models on top so it looks occupied.
To start as usual you need a base larger than the building you are going to build, another sheet of 1/16" is all you need. Then for the four walls 1/16" works just fine. If you arent cutting holes or making interior floors your job is pretty simple. Cut out four walls that are the same height, make two of the widths 1/8" shorter as the other two walls will go on the out side of these. Now when i made mine I imagined putting lots of detail and effort into it so I went beyond this simple level. I cut windows at about half an inch above the floor level, should be low enough for your models to 'see' out of. I made the top windows an inch tall and 3/4" wide, for the lower window they were only about 3/8" wide to make them more defensible. Of course the lowest level is raised more than an inch off the base so I guess the lower windows makes fighting monstrous infantry a level affair.
For the top level I used another 1/16" for base then added several layers of wooden dowels. the lower two were big 3/8", on the bottom layer i made it several layers deep to make a firing platform, then on the outside i added another 3/8" two deep, and then a 1/4" for the actual parapet wall. This should work to allow you to models on the firing step then deeper in .